Month: September 2014

Lost in Savernake Forest

‘I’m not sure I really like this forest,’ my girlfriend said to me as we walked along a small path. ‘It’s not really thick enough, it doesn’t feel particularly adventurous.’ About 30 feet further on whatever track it was that we’d been following had all but disappeared and we were wrestling our way through brambles and holly bushes in an attempt to plough through the undergrowth of Savernake Forest.

This Ancient Woodland provided the perfect excuse for us to get off the sofa for a Sunday morning walk. The sky was blue and the sun was out but there was sharpness in the air that betrayed the turning of the season, summer was unmistakably taking its leave and ushering in the brown leaves and blackberries of autumn.

Parking can be found at the Postern Hill picnic site, overlooking Marlborough, on the boundary of one of the forest’s so-called ‘distinct areas’. From here we set off unguided and largely uninformed on our walk (maps are available from the shop at the camp site, we just chose ignorance) with nothing more than a vague notion of heading off somewhere into there trees.

The picnic site itself was relatively open and filled with families eating, barbecuing and playing. As well as parents and children this spot is evidently a hit with dog walkers and cyclists and there are four tracks for them to enjoy in this region of the woodland, but we chose to follow none of these and blazed our own trail into the forest instead. We found what must have been a deer track and followed it, constantly having to untangle ourselves from the thorns of overhanging brambles as we ventured further and further from any other living being.

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Of course our isolation did add something to the experience and it was nice to enjoy some of the more beautiful but less visited areas of the forest, but it wasn’t an easy trek. Every time we came to a small clearing we looked around in the hope of finding a recognisable path, only to find ourselves forced to carry on without.

Away from the provided tracks the forest is largely unmanaged. Fallen trees are left to decay to provide habitat for invertebrates, while dead standing trees tend to be left where they are. The overall effect is that Savernake remains as natural as possible, much as it would have been when Saxon kings wrote of it in AD 934. One downside to this, though, was the particularly disappointing point where beer cans and drinks bottles had been left lying around, but considering the size of the area there was surprisingly little litter.

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After about half an hour of trekking the trees up ahead began to thin. Peering through the edge I could see an open field, at the far end of which was something large and white. I looked closer, it was a sightscreen: without having any idea where we were going, we’d wandered all the way across to Marlborough Cricket Club. Never mind though, we might have ventured way off course but at least we’d finally re-connected with civilisation. Except we hadn’t. Civilisation teased us, sitting tantalisingly close but the forest was determined not release us. No matter where we tried, any semblance of a path had finally disappeared and we could do no more than gaze abjectly at the neatly mown verges just a matter of feet away, denied access to them by undergrowth that would have needed a machete to pass through.

Resigned to defeat with freedom at our fingertips, we turned and tracked back the way we’d come. ‘This definitely isn’t a walk to do wearing a dress,’ my girlfriend lamented as she unhooked her skirt from yet another bush. As we eventually emerged back out into the clearing of the picnic site we saw a well laid track that cyclists and other walkers were merrily wandering along without a care in the world. Perhaps that would have made a more sensible option, but at least my girlfriend got the ‘adventurous’ forest walk she wanted.

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The Ancient in The Modern World

The dark might have been oppressive if weren’t adorned with dozens of tiny flames. Even combined, their meager amber glow could barely penetrate the depths of the stoney chamber, but each one was a point of warmth on the thick black canvas. So far the tomb only housed one person’s remains, but over the coming years that numbers is to grow into the hundreds.

A few weeks ago my girlfriend and I visited the West Kennet Long Barrow, one of the oldest existing buildings on the entire planet. Wiltshire is famous for its links to ancient history, made especially real by the numerous neolithic tombs that still scatter the county and that particular one is the flagship example. But now a local farmer has brought all that bronze age burial business into the www. era by constructing the first long barrow to be built in Britain for four millennia and offering up the plots inside it to anyone with a bit of cash going spare.

The work has been done over the course of 2014 just outside the village of All Cannings, partly using chalk and earth from the construction of a barn at a neighbouring farm and partly using stone imported into the area, including some bluestone of the kind that appears at Stonehenge. After all the effort, today was an open morning to show off the end product to anyone who was interested. ‘Get there quickly,’ we were told. ‘The owner wants to get to the pub.’ Can’t argue with that, so it was on with the boots and a quick scramble across the Kennet & Avon canal to where this 21st century tomb sits inconspicuously in a muddy field.

The entrance to the new long barrow

The entrance to the new long barrow

Even as we walked along the track leading towards the barrow we could hear the chattering voices of a healthy crowd which had converged from far parts of Wiltshire and beyond. On our arrival, a press photo shoot was being carried out in the doorway so we turned to the refreshments table which had, fittingly, been laid out with English Heritage approved mead. Honey-sweet and packing quite a punch, the golden liquid went down smoothly to set us up for an intimate guided tour with the owner’s wife and her small torch.

While on the whole it appears nothing more than a large mound from the outside, there is a front-facing wall made of large stones which houses the entryway. These may not be as grand as the sarson stones which form the threshold to other barrows, but their effect is still impressive. Beyond that is a wrought iron gate leading into a central passageway within.

Suddenly the dark becomes enclosing, and by the weak torchlight we were guided into one of the round chambers which lead off the spine. The entire interior is made from Cotswold dry stone, about the size of a standard brick, piled high from floor to round, spiralling ceiling. Built into the walls are the niches which are to house the urns- either one or an entire family’s worth- each one adorned this morning with a small candle. The weight of the earth overhead insulates completely from all noise and happenings outside.

There is already one lady interred here. Her spot was chosen by serendipity and a rather sweet twist of fate: when the deceased lady’s husband visited the barrow, a butterfly came in, flew straight to that particular shelf and settled there. He knew that had to be the one. The owner, meanwhile, has bagged his spot at the end of the main passageway and marked his territory today with an apple.

A candlelit niche onto which urns will be laid.

A candlelit niche onto which urns will be laid.

The entire construction has been beautifully rendered, truly a testament to both the owner’s vision and the skill of the stone masons. There is a strange, otherworldly feel to the whole place. To say you feel transported to an ancient world would both cloying and misleading, but certainly it induces a feeling of detachment from the modern environment, if only for a few minutes.

We re-entered reality to find ourselves again surrounded by sharp morning light and people planning their walk to the local pub. Being a home for the dead, the long barrow is not just left open for visitors to come and go as they please, but anyone interested in this curious mix of ancient and modern may enter by appointment. For anyone coming to visit the neolithic sites nearby, this offers a wonderfully made point of comparison and is well worth the phone call.

The Tour Comes to Town

It’s not often that top level international sport happens in Wiltshire. The sort of sport which gets national coverage, which even gets put on TV and everything. Thus, when the UK’s answer to the Tour de France- the creatively named Tour of Britain- went from Bath to London on a route that took it right through the centre of this modest sporting county, it seemed like something that I had to see.

Now, I should be honest here. I know absolutely nothing about cycling. I know who the famous riders are, and have just about come to grips with what a ‘peloton’ is, but in reality it is not one of the sports in which I consider myself to have any kind of expertise. Fortunately for me, a lifelong friend of mine and his family are all avid cyclists, and so it was with them at my side that I took up position under the early autumn sun outside The Wiltshire Yeoman pub in the village of Chirton.

We were by no means alone and a small but growing crowd- I’m sure there were enough to be classed as a ‘crowd’- had also seen fit to be outside a pub at five to 11 in the morning rather than actually turning up at work. Many had cycled there themselves and were fully decked out in their lycras, some even wearing replica kits (shirts? strips? The lingo escapes me on this one) of their favourite teams. I had no idea people really ‘supported’ teams in the cycling world; I was learning already.

There was some debate happening among the various groups about which side of the road offered the best sightlines. Gareth, my friend’s dad, adopted a trial position on the far side next to a photographer, but the head of this insatiably sociable household had ideas beyond simple reconnaissance. Glancing across to his neighbour, he crossed his arms, gave an upward nod and made his move: ‘We’ve been to a couple of these in France,’ he dropped casually, a knowing look appearing on his face. A classic manoeuvre; the bait was laid. The photographer lowered his camera and looked back at him: ‘Oh yeah?’ he replied, his interest piqued. Bait taken.

We had been there a good half an hour by this stage and people began getting their phones out to check the live commentary and make estimates regarding the athletes’ arrival times. Team cars had begun passing us by and the occasional outriding motorbike. Still the road hadn’t been closed though, bizarrely leaving motorists free to cruise headlong towards the incoming racers.

Who was in the lead, some people queried. Others were more excited by the police motorbikes, while others still found interest in their pint glasses. Our group was getting into tactics, who would be well suited to the climb into Devizes and then the sprint out. It wasn’t a section that would suit Mark Cavendish, they decided, before coming to the conclusion that he ‘wasn’t very good at riding a bike’; a damning indictment of a champion cyclist if ever I heard one, but one that was backed up by his developing habit of falling off and crashing. They said it was because he was a good sprinter but didn’t have the downhill background of many others, so was liable to lose control when things got tricky. I accepted this wisdom, knowing no better. Across the road, meanwhile, Gareth and his new photographer friend were now deep in conversation.

By about half past 11 things started to happen. More and more motorbikes began to appear from the west, forming a ‘rolling roadblock’ to prevent any inflowing cars from pulling out of their junctions. But from the east a problem was bumbling into view. A lone bike rider, like a lycra-clad Pied Piper, was leading the motliest of convoys down the road towards the race: bouncing along behind him were two enormous tractors with even larger mud-covered attachments, then a van, some cars. Many cars, in fact, stretching back quite some way, all stuck behind the farm traffic with the racers now mere seconds away.

Now I have never actually been to the Tour de France, but I don’t imagine muck spreaders often cause a flurry of panic on the Champs-Elysees. The two tractors were immediately surrounded by police motorbikes and guided down the junction to the safety of the village. A further four motorbikes formed a wall across the road and frantically waved every other vehicle into the pub car park while a few spectators shouted for them to move. The drivers, meanwhile, clearly not expecting to encounter all this on their commute, all looked utterly bemused. One stopped in the entrance of the car park, wound down his window and entered into a discussion with a policeman about what was happening, blocking everyone behind him. ‘GET OUT THE BLOODY WAY!’ yelled furious onlookers. The racers were bearing down on us, we had no time to indulge their confusion.

Finally the road was cleared and moments later the cyclists appeared. The leaders sped towards us as the crowd began to clap and whoop. A group of children from the village primary school waved home made Union Jacks, cheering excitedly. At the back of the peloton (See? I told you) was Bradley Wiggins, leaning into the window of a support car and chatting away, looking for all the world like a man idling in a coffee shop rather than peddling a bike at 30ish mph. ‘Go on Wiggo!’ shouted the supporters, as he breezed along without a care in the world. He probably barely even noticed their presence, but they will all have taken home a memory to cherish.

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In a flash they were gone. A minute or so later the chasing pack came round the corner and flew by at an equally baffling speed. In total we probably watched actual sport for about 30 seconds- if that- but it was the sense of occasion that made it worthwhile, even for a non-fan like me. Like I said, it’s not often that top level sport happens in Wiltshire, so when it does we might as well grab it and make an event of it, something we do not by creating great fanfare but by getting together and just sort of… hanging out. And when that event includes frenzied police riders, angry spectators and bewildered tractor drivers, so much the better. So, Bradley and pals, can we pencil you in for the same time again next year?